Always a nervous but exciting time. The less stressed and better prepared you are for your first race meeting, the better it is likely to go.

From the outside it may appear quite daunting with so many questions about,
“how do I…”
“where do I…”
and the perennial “what if I’m slow/crash/get in the way of other, more experienced racers?”

What we’ll do here is break it down into some simple stuff, and show you where to go for more information. However, if you’re doing ride days and track days regularly, much of this you’ll already have, have done, or be familiar with.

This is not a definitive how, or what to do, but it will answer many of the questions that a lot of new riders will have.

So, you’ll need some good protection! Always buy the best you can afford, acknowledging that everyone’s threshold for this will be different.  

The minimum requirements are:

• helmet (full face, non-flip front)

• leather suit (one- or two-piece)

• boots

• gloves

• back protector

• chest protector.

Requirements in this space are always evolving, with new standards or minimum specifications, so we won’t go into too much detail, but we will provide the link to MNZ’s rule book pages (which will always be up to date).

Think about the fit and comfort of your gear; uncomfortable or restrictive gear can be quite a limitation.

Leathers: One- or two-piece (i.e. zip together top and bottom) suits are allowed. If two-pieces, it needs to be a concealed zip and be sturdy (the last thing you want is your back to become exposed!). Built in body armour in leathers (usually in places like elbows, knees, hips, shoulders and the like) is always very beneficial.

Tip: If you are buying on a budget, scan second hand options on TradeMe. Similarly with Boots.

Helmets: The sky is the limit for cost and features but there are a few core areas to note.

1. Fit: road racing will usually be a slightly firmer fit, but also your helmet will be checked by the MNZ Steward before each event to ensure it cannot slip off in an accident (yes, it has happened!)

2. Age and condition: Not over 10 years old, and also that there are no signs of prior accident damage

3. Certification: Most helmets will have a rating e.g. ECE22-05, Snell M2015, etc. Your helmet must have one of the approved ratings (see MNZ rule book on safety gear).

4. No non-manufacturer approved fittings can be used e.g. GoPro mounts.

Tip: Flash graphics are nice, but plain paint of the same helmet is usually cheaper.

Now you have all the gear, the next item to tick off the list is a Motorcycling New Zealand race licence. There are a few options here, but with all options you need to be a member of an MNZ affiliated club (which Auckland Motorcycle Club Inc. is).

Once you are a club member, there are three main sorts of licences you can use:

• Day Licence: Always check with the club running the event if they allow for these. This is aimed at a once-off rider testing the waters, but may not always be suitable or used at the event you have chosen.

• Club Licence: Aimed at racers who generally just participate at club level events. First timers here get a discount. This can be upgraded mid-year, or at renewal to championship.

• Championship Licence: These are required for riders who wish to compete in Street events
  (e.g. Whanganui Cemetery Circuit), the NZSBK series, or the North/South Island Championships.

Being a member of MNZ via a race licence also provides access to a number of benefits including discounts for ferries and fuel, and some personal insurance cover.

“Okay, so what am I going to ride, and what needs doing to it for me to race it?”

With regards to what kind of bike — it’s a balance between what classes are available at your local Club event, and what you own or want to buy! Some clubs will focus on say Classic or Post Classic events and will have classes structured for older bikes. Auckland Motorcycle Club run a programme of events structured more towards current motorcycles and classes. Within reason, at most Club events, there will be something that your bike will fit into.

These will generally be core classes as per the MNZ rule book. These usually have a defined set of can and can’t do modifications, capacity limits, etc. such as:

125cc Grand Prix/Moto3: Specialist small capacity Grand Prix bikes

SuperLite (aka F3): 450cc 4 stroke triples or 4’s.

ProTwins: Lightly Modified 650cc twins.

300 Supersport: Kawasaki 300 Ninja, KTM RC390, Yamaha R3

600 Sports Production/F2:  Such as Suzuki GSX-R600, Yamaha R6, Triumph/MV Agusta 675, etc. (F2 would include 250GP bikes)

Sidecars: For the three wheelers

Superbike: Large capacity bikes bigger than F2/600cc 4 cylinder bikes or larger — Yamaha R1, Suzuki GSX-R1000, Kawasaki ZX10R, big Ducati twins, etc.

See the Appendices A–L for the specific class rules. If in doubt, ask.

You’ll often see a Clubmans class, which is for those first starting racing and less about the bike fitting into rules for modifications (but still need to meet the technical safety side); and possibly a Classic / Post Classic class for older bikes.

At Club events, classes are quite often combined on track, but scored separately in their own class.

If you are buying a bike to race:

• Don’t be scared to look at classes for smaller bikes — generally speaking, you will learn more, (and they are cheaper and more fun to run).

• If it’s second hand, do your homework on which class it will fit into and whether it meets the rules.

Technical

Unfortunately, you can’t just buy a bike from a shop, and ride straight on to the circuit. But that’s not a bad thing, as there are a few changes you need to make for safety’s sake.

Items like front brake caliper bolts, sump plug, oil filler and radiator cap all need to be drilled and safety wired.

Spin on oil filters need to be secured also. The easiest solution is to fit a large hose-clip to the outside of the filter, then safety wire the clip to the bike.

Any crank case cover which can come into contact with the track and holds oil needs to have some protection. For many modern bikes, you can buy aftermarket case guards quite cheaply from your local shop.

No broken levers (they must still have the ball on the end), a ‘shark fin’ to protect the rear sprocket, a rounded edge on the wind screen, plus some classes require an oil-containing belly pan.

Click through images below and hover/tap for examples.

Number Boards: Well, you’ll need a race number! You’ll also need to put it on the bike so it’s readable.  Usually three; one on the front and one each side. This is quite easily done with contact colour sheet, and numbers from your local bike shop. Watch what colour is applicable for your class.

It pays to have a few spare numbers. Your preferred number may not be available, so spares make it easy to swap, for minimum time and effort.

Also, a tip, don’t turn up with number 1 to your first race meeting — not unless you have really good banter and more than a few skills! 

Glycol: Most new bikes come with Glycol based coolant.  This will need to be dropped out and replaced with either water, or a non-glycol based coolant.

Give your bike a good check over, like it needs to pass a warrant - for core items like brake pads, wheel bearings, chain, etc.

Tip: Make sure you have valve caps.

Read through the technical sections of the MNZ rule book and any appendices for your class. Always have a good read.

 Before the day

Make sure your bike and all your gear is clean, your bike is ready to go, and any and all maintenance has been done.

Read the MNZ rule book and pay attention to the flags and meanings. Also read any supplementary rules that were provided as part of the entry. This will cover anything unique to the day or the event.

If possible, load the bike the night before onto your trailer (we do recommend using a trailer or van, rather than riding). One less job in the morning!

Make yourself a list of things to take, including your gear, spare fuel, tools, tyre pressure gauge, stands, and anything else you may need (e.g. spare levers, just in case you have a slow speed tip-over then your day doesn’t need to end). Don’t forget supplies for the rider — food and liquids. Stick to lots of water, and avoid having too many sugary drinks like Red Bull.

On the Day

We recommend you get there early. Give yourself plenty of time. Sign-on starts at 7–7.30am at many events. 

If you have a friend who’s been racing before, all the better as they’ll help steer you around the first time. If not, always ask the AMCC team if you have any questions on what you will need to do next, and where that is located.

If you have paid for, or intend on using a garage, find out which one and get your gear unpacked. Then move your van/car and trailer (Hampton Downs have a requirement to keep the back of the garages clear). If you don’t have a garage, find a spot on the hard stand and get your gear unloaded.

First official job is sign on.
Take your new licence (or money if you intend to use a day licence) to the sign-on area. The team will want to see your licence (make sure it is signed if you have a proper one issued already), and also your club membership card. They’ll get you to sign the sign-on sheet, and you’ll get a transponder for race results and timing. First time riders will also be issued with a high-vis fluorescent vest (though there’s no harm in bringing your own).

Head back to your bike, fit the transponder, and then take the bike and your licence to the machine examination area. (Most clubs still do this, though the rule book does allow other options – if in doubt, ask). There’ll be a team who will check over your bike. They’ll look to make sure handle bars are tight, have end caps, steering head bearing tension, wheel and swing arm bearing condition, brake pads have plenty of life, and the throttle shuts by itself; as well as all necessary items safety wired or covered and there’s nothing unsafe, loose, or broken that will be an issue.

Tip: Make sure your bike is clean — and always say thank you to this hard working crew.

Once your bike has the necessary pass sticker, park it. Grab your helmet, and the MNZ steward will give your licence a final check, and that your helmet fit, condition and standards are correct.

Tip: make sure your helmet make, model/serial number is in the front of your licence.

If you are using tyre warmers, now’s a good time to fit them and do your tyre pressures etc; and have enough gas for the first session. (Don’t fill it to “full” as that makes it harder to ride!)

Riders’ Briefing

This will happen at most Clubs before getting on circuit, and attendance is compulsory. Many clubs will have a written briefing they’ll hand out at sign-on (please read it). They’ll reiterate any key points, and also any questions can be covered. The team may also ask new riders (either new to racing, or new to the circuit) to stick around briefly afterwards, to cover over a few more details.

The Race Meeting

From here, groups will start being called for practice, qualifying or racing. Keep an ear out — and watch the programme. There will usually be a warning (e.g. 5 min, 2 min). Remember, like a ride day, there are no sheep farms to be won at a club meeting (or NZSBK). 

Many a championship has been won through the consistency of staying upright and finishing. Being your first event, relax and learn, and feel your way.

Starting Grid positions will be posted before your first race. Write a little code on a piece of duct tape on your triple clamp — e.g. 17 R5 2L, meaning grid number 17 which is row 5, 2nd from the left — so you can find your grid spot easily, and not forget it.

Tip: look over the pit wall and watch an earlier race to see what and how it works.  

Into and out of the pits: Stay inside the entry and exit lines. Don’t dive onto or off the racing line suddenly.

During the day, drink plenty of water and make sure you have enough gas in your bike. Give it a check over between races.

Make friends, talk to people, learn, watch, and listen. Enjoy yourself.

If you have an issue, need to stop, or come off.

If you can’t ride at your usual race pace, or close to it, pull off the track as soon as you can in a safe place. Do not return slowly to the pits — especially if you have a fluid leak.

If you fall off, your race is over — you can’t restart. Pay attention to the wonderful marshals, follow their instructions and, if possible, help them. 

What if I’m too slow?

The perennial question that many riders ask. Define slow? It is likely you won’t win your first race, and you may well be at, or near, the back. Apparently, Rome wasn’t built in a day! You will get quicker. 

Other riders will know you are a new rider (remember the fluoro vest) and will give you some room. You may even get lapped. Hold your line — the fast guys will find a way past easily and safely. They may even share tips later with you, if you ask for help on anything.

Lastly, after your last race day, collect your licence from the office, return the transponder and say thanks to all the crew you may see and who helped run the event. They don’t ask for much and a thank you goes a long way. Make sure you give the flaggies an enthusiastic wave on the slow down lap too.

Then:

1. Look out for the next event date

2. Wash your bike and check it over

3. Think about how you can go faster next time

For More Info:
Contact any of the AMCC Team directly. You’ll find our details here, or email roadrace@amcc.org.nz or buckets@amcc.org.nz and these committees will look after you.